Martha Amelie: Simplicity 8228

Hello ! How is your week going ? Mine has been a mixed bag. My class took a field trip skiing the other day, and that was interesting. Anyway, this weekend I made a new set, and I am super pleased with it.

I think this bralette may become my go-to from now on. It does take a bit more time to sew as it has shaping and seams, but it's really lovely. I know this post is long, but I have lots of important information. The headings are in bold so you can skip if you don't care for a certain section.

I named the bralette Martha Amelie: The name Martha just popped into my head and I knew it was going to stick for the style, and Amelie for the color. I know it doesn't mean red, but oh well.


Pattern: Simplicity 8228, a collaboration with Madalynne. The sizes run from 32A to 40DD.

Size: 32D, my normal size. I did take a look at the instructions for choosing size, and they seem to be fine.


Materials Used: Burgundy stretch galloon lace, rosy nude power mesh, and 1/8" pale pink elastic all from Tailor Made Shop on Etsy, along with a bit of pink 3/8" picot elastic from ArteCraft, also on Etsy. The gusset of the unders is lined in a cotton scrap.

Directions: I did look at the diagrams for putting it together. It was common sense mostly. I liked the zig-zag topstitching they told you to do.

Instead of using the lining and lace as one piece, I decided to make a proper lining, so constructed the two bodies separately then attached them with the topstitching. I didn't line the straps or the racerback, only the body. I used my thin elastic to try to seal in the edges, if you will.



Alterations: I had zilch. I really like the fit. I know a lot of people have had to lengthen the straps, but I didn't. In fact, I may have accidently shortened them a tad and they fit great.
I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't have to make the rib cage pieces (underbust?) narrower. I guess it's amazing what band AND cup sizes can do, rather than just a regular size and A/B and C/D options. I'm really pleased with it.
I was worried I might have to add elastic in under the cups for support, but the seam there and all the layers seems to be doing the job very well, and it doesn't ride up at all ! Even when I wear it for hours!

Hackability: Excellent ! If you just look at the pattern pieces, all you have is a very versatile long line bra with straps and racerback that aren't designed into the body. This means you could sub them out for regular straps, make lace straps that criss-cross, do any number of things. You could make a really cute swim top or sports bra if you chose good fabrics. Very versatile. I love it.

A Couple of Bones to Pick: The materials list is wrong. You don't need a hook and eye fastener for view B, nor do you need a yard of bra lining. Seriously, a yard?? I used a portion of half a yard.

It says you need 2 5/8 yards of 8" lace. That's about 94.5 inches. I rounded up to the nearest yard and bought 3 yards, which is 108 inches.
When I finished the bra, just the bra, I had over 63 inches left over. I know this because I dangled it to the ground and it was taller than me.
This means I only used 45 inches of lace, or about 1 1/4 yards--about half of what I "needed".
Granted, I realize that as a 32D, I wear the smallest band size and the cups aren't very large either. The yardage needed for a 40DD, the largest size drafted, would be drastically different. But for someone on a budget, buying excess lace could be frustrating. I think the pattern should include yardages for each band size. It would be more accurate.
I could also use narrower lace, but that again is due to my size.

More Comments on Fit: This bralette is super supportive, part of which is due to the power mesh lining, I think. It's a little hard to wrestle on, but is soooo comfortable once on. Without the power mesh, it would have a bit more relaxed fit. I think it's great--I know that I could wear this to dance in and feel supported and contained (TMI? Oh well.) It does work mostly off compression with the mesh, so it gives a bit of a monoboob, but I really don't mind. As an underwire-avoider, I will sacrifice lots of things for support. The fact that this doesn't completely flatten me out completely outweighs the monoboob.


The Unders: These are a hack of a personal pattern, so that I could used the straight-edged lace. If anyone wants, I can post a tutorial. They are unlined except for the gusset, which is lined with a cotton scrap I had. The leg holes have no elastic, to prevent lines from showing. They are very comfy.


Overall I'm really happy with this set.

In other news, my family is going through some trials right now, so if you pray, prayers would be appreciated. Thank you.

Have you made anything lacy recently, or tried this pattern?

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